Destination: South Africa

Travel Editor, Kevin Raub sends DAME a postcard by Kevin Raub


Photography by Kevin Raub

I've never been to Africa. Some find that hard to believe, considering the fact that I've been to 67 countries on five continents. It's not for lack of trying. I've been invited on several trips throughout the years, but for one reason or another, boarding passes for Cairo, Johannesburg, Nairobi, and Tripoli have remained far off desires all. The last intrepid continent had thus far eluded me. Besides, I never wanted to do Africa like any old heathen, what with all those ridiculously expensive game lodges and bush spas that pepper the Sub-Saharan portion of the continent like little lapses of luxury in an otherwise war-torn, poverty-stricken, dictator-rife land. Screw all that! I wanted to go in style and I don't like to share.

Enter Micato Safaris, who have been crooned the U.S. over for their excellent safaris, taking home Travel+Leisure's World's Best Safari Outfitter award six years running. Now, I am a contributor to T+L on occasion and I happen to know editors there can be a finicky bunch, so this was an especially interesting endorsement to me. What was this Micato up to that all the others weren't? I wanted to know what all the fuss was about, so by God, I thought to myself, I wait any longer to touch down in the Animal Kingdom and stare down some of the worlds most ferocious beasts by day, and feast on pastrami-dusted ostrich filet and Cajun-spiced impala by night. Africa would be mine and mine alone.

I live in Sâo Paulo now, so Africa is a mere seven-hour puddle jump on South African Airlines. Micato provides a ubiquitous safari hat and a slightly less nauseating canvas travel bag - two things I normally would have scoffed at in favor of my awesome hair style and Tumi - but I decided I would throw myself into this role with Oscar-level enthusiasm. I arrived for my flight in Brazil with both in hand and damn anyone who had anything to say about it (I'm a professional, damnitt!). Suddenly, I can speak of nothing beyond The Big 5.

Beyond a few general requests by me (let's avoid the crowds in Kenya, let's do Botswana), I let Micato handle the planning and itinerary. After all, the bespoke safari is the test that separates the men from the boys. They picked South Africa, Botswana and Zambia, where I first encounter a taste of Africa's feralness. We are cruising down the Zambezi River, not far from Victoria Falls, when our boat captain steers Zimbabwe-side left to avoid a gaggle of hippos in the water. Hippos, it turns out, are mean as hell. They can easily upturn the boat and our Mosi beers and gourmet finger food along with it, so we steer a safe distance away.

Some baboons look on from the shore from the Zimbabwe side, no doubt wondering if we realize their country is being run into the ground by a madman? Of course, we all do. I just want to tell them to hop across the river to Zambia, where astronomical inflation hasn't rendered the local currency worthless and with too many zeros to possibly count. I sleep at the Islands of Siankaba, a river-straddling lodge with a warm staff and lovely river views, but little in the way of game viewing (it's really just a base to visit Victoria Falls) and a slight step down from world-class luxury. My opinion remains suspect at this point.

I get my first real taste of game on a day trip to Chobe National Park in Botswana, known for elephants but offering no shortage of giraffes, hippos and zebras as well. It's all very exciting, but I can't help think about how it's any different from the San Diego Wild Animal Park, for instance? Both have fences, here they are just further away. But it all clicks once I reach the Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve, back in South Africa near Kruger National Park (they share a border). Sabi Sabi is home to four upscale lodges, with the Earth Lodge leading the pack. The rooms, planted inconspicuously into the landscape like traditional bush huts that appear to sit underground, are pure Heaven. Mud walls, complete with loose strands of straw still sticking out like elephant dung, enclose a luxurious fortress of comfort and style. Extra large trees carved out here by renown South African furniture sculpture Geoffrey Armstrong serve as impressive wall candy. You can't get this in San Diego! I am becoming a believer.

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