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Destination: Stockholm
The city that gave us Garbo is much more than Ikea, ABBA, and Absolut
By Sharon Hall
Published: Dec 01, 2007
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YAHOOWHO DOESN’T LOVE SWEDISH STYLE? Ingmar Bergman, a million shades of white and the finest fridges in all humanity. Yet Stockholm rarely makes the list of hip European jaunts, a list often limited to London, Paris and Milan. And it’s high time it did. For elegance and culture, not to mention meatballs, Sweden’s capital is up there with the best of them.
Sprawled over the archipelago where the Baltic meets the Malaren Sea, Stockholm is all cool water, rich architecture and gorgeous Aryan types who speak perfect English. There are 100 museums, 14 islands, kingly palaces and whole streets of designer goodies. And getting from one place to another is a breeze. As with all the best cities – LA, are you listening? – you can walk almost anywhere, and with room to maneuver, too (London, take note). The men won’t wolf whistle from their balconies (Milan), the public transport system is roomy and efficient (London, again), and the people are so friendly that it’s actually fun to lose your way after one too many schnappses and ask a stranger for directions. For those who have asked for directions in Paris, Stockholm will restore your faith.
It’s north enough for the sunny nights, so you can visit in the summer and swan about the chic boutiques and pavement cafés where the ‘beautiful people’ hang out. (Sweden isn’t Norway – it knows how to party). And come the long, dark winters, the locals make for the cozy pubs that line the city. There are as many restaurants per capita in Stockholm as Paris, not nearly so much dog mess on the sidewalks and the maitre D’s are pleasant and mannerly no matter how swanky the restaurant. I know. And they say Cophenhagen’s “wonderful, wonderful.”
DID YOU KNOW…?
Until 1965, Swedes drove on the left hand side of the street. They all switched to the right-hand side one weekday at 5pm, a time chosen deliberately to prevent accidents. Had it been a morning changeover, drivers might have been too sleepy to realize this was the big day.
PLANNING
www.sweden.com
www.stockholmtown.com
www.visit-sweden.com
GOING
Sunny nights – June-July
Nordic gloom – January-February
SEEING
Skansen – Cultural park dating to 1891 with 150 historic buildings, full of elk, wolves and bears, and a children's zoo. www.skansen.se
Vasa Museum – Almost entirely preserved Viking warship from the 17th century. www.vasamuseet.se
Kungliga slottet – Built in the mid-13th century, The Royal Palace of Stockholm is where the King and Queen live, work and play. www.royalcourt.se
Gamla Stan – With narrow stone streets and old buildings, Gamla Stan, literally "old town,” is a charming area to stroll through. It’s a small island in the middle of Stockholm that was perfectly preserved by Sweden’s neutrality in World War II.
SHOPPING
Nordiska Kompaniet - Stockholm’s oldest department store stocked with the best of international and Swedish styles. – Hamngatan 18-20, http://nk.se
DesignTorget – Objets d'art, jewelry, household items, furniture, all exquisite stuff. – 3 Sergels Torg, www.designtorget.se
EATING AND DRINKING
East Restaurant & Bar – Stureplan 13 46-8/611-4959
Halv Trappa Plus Gård – Lästmakargatan 3 46-8/611-0277
Gondolen – Stadsgården 6, 46-8/641-7090
Eriks – 1Österlanggåtan 7, 46-8/238-500
SLEEPING
Berns Hotel – Nackstromsgatan 8 46-8/ 566-32200, www.berns.se
Hotel Birger Jarl – Tulegatan 8 46-8/ 674-1800, www.birgerjarl.se
SOUVENIR
Can't get there? Don't worry. DAME knows where to find the best Swedish goods without leaving the country!
KOSTA BODA GLASS
Kosta Boda is one of the world’s leading glasshouses, with a jewelry line designed by Monica Backström. Decorate your home or your neckline with her fine work, www.northerner.com
AQUAVIT: AND THE NEW SCANDINAVIAN CUISINE
Marcus Samuelsson cooks up a storm at his Manhattan restaurant Aquavit – here’s how. $29.70 at www.amazon.com
GEVALIA COFFEE
One of Sweden’s greatest exports. Try the Special Roasts Basket featuring four of their most famous coffees. $24.95 at www.gevalia.com
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