The Road Less Traveled

Louis Vuitton takes a surprise turn and returns to its iconic roots with its upcoming advertising campaign

By Melanie Chokron
Published: Dec 01, 2007

What would inspire a French luxury label to trade in its seductive, ethereal photos of young Hollywood darling Scarlett Johansson for a campaign starring a former Soviet Union leader? Louis Vuitton’s new ad campaign, debuting in September magazines, also features tennis legends-power couple Andre Agassi and Steffi Graf, who grace the pages of this month’s Vanity Fair, as well as other provocative and certainly select celebrity choices.

Louis Vuitton started in 1854 as a trunk maker and, these days, their handbags are staples for hip-hop stars (Kanye often carries them, Diddy is a faithful follower, Pharrell Williams was featured in ads last year) and devoted “Louis” pop princesses like Jessica Simpson, who famously brought her handbag camping with then-husband Nick Lachey on an episode of Newlyweds.

But according to a statement from the label, this new advertising turn focuses on a “core value” for the company—travel. The elegance that comes with this choice and its cultured jet-set attitude is sure to be noticed. It’s grown-up, articulate, moody, and a bit nostalgic.

At first glance, I am impressed with the composition of the image, not a surprise when you find out it’s shot by famed portrait photographer Annie Leibovitz. It’s in the way she captures the contrast of a warm cozy interior against the cold outdoor atmosphere. Upon closer inspection, one realizes that the subject is none other than Mikhail Gorbachev. Interesting. We don’t typically equate Gorbachev with the luxury, glamour and elegance that the Vuitton brand has consistently tried to represent — until now. But even more unexpected is the irony behind this shot; the Berlin wall in the background reminds us of the Reagan speech, “Mr. Gorbachev tear down this wall!” !” — creating a powerful, if somewhat unexpected, response to fine luggage. Louis Vuitton has never explored this side of the model game. French Vogue deepens the intrigue of this choice further by telling us that Gorbachev was actually not too excited about the operation, and only committed himself in exchange for a donation from Louis Vuitton to his environmental association, Green Cross International.
deneuve
In the case of Catherine Deneuve, however, the familiar Vanity Fair style from Annie Leibovitz fits the French icon perfectly, who looks better than ever (though we suspect Photoshop might be an accomplice). The choice of this classic beauty is commended, and the image hauntingly conjures up Anna Karenina. Let’s stay in Russia, after all…

It is apparent that the brand is trying to shift its image to some extent, probably trying to close the J-Lo and Pharrell Williams chapter, to elicit a human, highly intellectual and sophisticated association. But, from Pharell to Gorbachev? Sharp turn. Very sharp.

Lest you envy Deneuve’s ultra conservative look, as far as I’m concerned, I’m not going where she’s going. So what would motivate the brand enough to sacrifice the euphoria and frivolity of their faithful customer for the new Vuitton handbag?

Put simply: a genius marketing strategy. Who among us is not weary of the never ending TV shows and tabloids screaming Paris, Nicole, Britney, Lindsay? Vuitton differentiates the brand from this loud phenomenon by delivering an understated, sensible campaign while still leveraging power of celebrity. There’s the genius and I say, “Bravo.”

It is my belief (and frankly hope) that we are beginning to see the glimmer of a paradigm shift from featuring the current crop of paparazzi favorites that have been used as “fashion icons” in advertising and fashion pages. Seemingly, at the quick, we find Louis Vuitton already reacting to this new demand. And we relish Vuitton’s support for the return of intellectual.

As far as utilizing a Russian icon, while perhaps transparent, the attempt to secure the brand’s positioning in Moscow, now the most expensive city in the world, is frankly brilliant.

Ultimately, Louis Vuitton has always proven superior in its product development, sales and overall customer satisfaction, and will remain the smartest luxury investment to satisfy the most discriminating of Dames.

Style expert Melanie Chokron, a Paris native, is the co-owner of Fashion Glue , a consultancy specializing in trend spotting, brand development, distribution and marketing for the fashion industry.