What's In a Name?

Even if a product promises it's organic, in reality the word has multiple meanings

By Susie Lee
Published: Dec 01, 2007

When it comes to beauty and skin care products, going organic may be tougher than you think. From the shelves of upscale boutiques to drugstores, more and more products are labeled “natural or organic.” Advertisers and marketers have made it mind-bogglingly hard to decode the labels. The general assumption is that the high standards kept for the organic food industry equates to the standards for the beauty industry. When an apple is labeled organic, it is 100% organic. When a lotion is labeled organic, it’s open to interpretation.

“European certification for organic products is more stringent than those of the U.S.,” states Dr. Lisa Airan, a Manhattan dermatologist. European organic certification bears the BDIH or ECOCONTROL stamp but, in the States, the naming is less stringent, which makes your product's whole ingredients harder to decipher—but allows companies freewill to mark-up products under the guise of an “Organic” label.

The term organic refers to soil; it’s farming without the use of toxic pesticides and fertilizers in the soil (Organic Trade Association). Why ingest unnecessary toxins? is a common and good question. But the actual benefits of organic beauty and skin care products are really unknown. What we do know is that skin is our largest organ. So logically, what we put onto our skin gets absorbed into our bodies. Parabens and petrochemicals are just a few ingredients that are in many cosmetic and beauty products and are thought to be irritants to the skin. But parabens are also rapidly absorbed, which can be why it feels like natural lotions sit on the skin. In actuality, lotions made from essential fatty acids do absorb, and also protect the outer layer of skin, especially in cold temperatures. Petrochemicals and some other synthetics are being linked to skin irritation and skin tumors (see this story and this one).

Parabens are not a petrochemical, but they are synthetic ingredients used to preserve a formulation (prevent bacterial growth and fungus) and there are few natural alternatives. “Some people have terrible reactions to parabens. These people, if continually exposed, could get skin irritations and contact dermatitis—this is why some companies have taken the ingredient out all together in their products,” say Dr. Airan, including Whole Foods own body lotion brand—a good, fairly cheap option, though the lotion can feel a bit sticky and not easily absorbed. Other alternatives for creams? Dr. Airan recommends Stella McCartney's new organic skin care line called Care. Dr. Bronner’s is also a great line that makes soaps and lotions and will not wreck the monthly budget.

Finally, here’s how not to get hoodwinked by advertising tricks and gimmicks: First, look for the USDA organic seal—that assures the consumer that the product is at least 95% organic (excluding water and salt). If it says “made with organic ingredients,” it is at least 70% organic. If it is less than 70% organic, companies can only list the ingredients on the ingredient list, but not on the front panel (Organic Consumers Organization). “Bottom line,” says Dr. Airan, “read the labels to ensure that you’re getting a quality organic product.”

Chicago born makeup artist Susie Lee has worked with Heather Graham, Amy Poehler, and Virginia Madsen, among others. She is a Libra, still enjoys the movie Pretty in Pink, and wants to adopt Harry Potter.