The Big Dumpling

Four not-to-be-missed dumpling houses in New York

By Simcha Whitehill
Published: Dec 04, 2007

Step aside tapas and rice pudding, New York’s got a new food obsession: the dumpling. From Chinatown to Chelsea, a slew of sizzlin’ shops have opened to feed your need for the other white meat. Here’s a who’s who of the best new dumpling houses in the city.

Most Craveable
Rickshaw Dumplings 53 East 8th Street & 61 W. 23rd
Featured in an episode of MTV’s True Life and on Martha Stewart, these gourmet dumplings have a loyal following. You must try the delectable Peking duck dumplings, dipped in a wide variety of sauces. But save room for dessert—Rickshaw is famous for its chocolate soup dumpling, the kind of gooey treat only a woman could have created (in this case celebrated Chef Anita Lo). Bonus points to this chain for providing the perfect soundtrack, comfortable seating areas, and even a photo booth at the 8th St. store.

Best Bang for Your Buck
Dumpling House 118 Eldridge Street
You’ll have to follow the trail of foodies to find this tiny dive. About six women hover over a hot stove and use spatulas to shovel dumplings onto your plate. The “pork” ones are delicious—I use the quotation marks because it tastes much more like mystery meat than pork. And the veggie-stuffed sesame pancakes are crammed with flavor. Sure, there’s nowhere to sit, but a full meal is only $1, so who can complain.

Best Mascot
Dumpling Man 100 Saint Marks Place With all the punk and goth kids hanging around St. Mark's place, it's refreshing to see a smile, especially when it's a dumpling come to life with 80's hair on a sign for a dumpling shop. Inside, you can watch the dumpling makers as they fold pork, chicken, beef, and shrimp into pockets of dough. The Food Network, Al Roker, and local hipsters have all given this place the thumbs up. But before you buy into the hype, the prices are a little high and the wait is a tad long. Consider yourself warned.

Fastest Service
Fried Dumpling 99 Allen Street Skip the crowds and hit up this dumpling shop for the puffiest dough in town. It’s a hole in the wall, but the pork bun bites are so fluffy you wish they made pillows. Although the menu is limited, you can fill your belly without emptying your wallet. This is one of the few establishments where they don’t cook to order, which means you get served ultra quickly.

Being a fat kid who had to sneak snacks trained Simcha Whitehill in the skill of standing and eating. Now as an adult, she has turned it into an art with her appetite for New York City street food. A pizza historian (look for her upcoming "L'asso Pizza Bible" in The Onion) and all around dough connoisseur, she is always just a bite away from her personal heaven.

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